Restaurant Review: The Luminary

posted on March 18, 2015 at 8:55 am

Photo by Erik Meadows

Photo by Erik Meadows

When chef Eli Kirshtein returned from competing on Bravo’s “Top Chef” in 2009, Atlanta was eager to see how the young chef would capitalize on his 15 minutes of fame. The then-25-year-old was among the show’s five finalists before a sausage-wrapped lamb dish sent him packing in episode 12. Before “Top Chef,” Kirshtein graduated from the Culinary Institute of America and worked for notable Atlanta chefs including Joël Antunes and Kevin Rathbun. He was also the protégé of “Top Chef” alum Richard Blais. “I’ve run four different, four star restaurants in Atlanta,” Blais wrote on the show’s blog in 2009. “And it’s honest to say that Eli was responsible for a handful of those stars. He was the text book definition of a great sous-chef.”

Instead of settling at an Atlanta restaurant after “Top Chef,” Kirshtein pursued consulting gigs in Singapore. Between trips and public appearances, he would pop up at Atlanta food events and mention plans to open a restaurant of his own. Several years passed, however, and no restaurant appeared. People, myself included, eventually began to wonder: “Where’s Eli? What’s he doing?”

In August 2014, Kirshtein and business partner Jeremy Iles opened French-American brasserie the Luminary in Krog Street Market. At first glance, the Luminary’s menu appears classically French — the kind of restaurant Atlanta has been hungry for. The menu features standards such as steak frites and duck confit, as well as oysters from the restaurant’s sparse raw bar. Many of these dishes have some sort of twist. Kirshtein calls this “regionalized” French-American cuisine, which explains Southern touches such as Alabama Duroc ham in the croque monsieur. Basque and Asian flavors have popped up on the Luminary’s menu, too. Instead of feeling fresh, these riffs come off as disingenuous, different just for the sake of being different. Many dishes are poorly executed, a reminder that it’s best to conquer the basics before trying to make a classic your own.

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