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Food Finds: Dry-aged steaks at Star Provisions

posted on October 1, 2010 at 8:55 am

If you’re a serious beef lover, dry-aged steaks are the holy grail. When you dry-age beef, the muscle breaks down, which makes the meat more tender. You also eliminate a lot of the moisture, making the beef much drier and easier to cook.

However, not all dry-aged steaks deserve a place on your plate. Star Provisions’ Todd Immel says it all starts with the beef. Star Provisions uses prime grain-fed beef, which it sources from Halperns’ or Buckhead Beef. Immel focuses on two cuts: bone-in rib-eyes and New York strips. Another key factor is where the beef is aged. Star Provisions built a special walk-in as part of its in-house charcuterie program that’s always kept a chilly 40 degrees. The meat is tagged so they can keep track of what went in when. The steak is weighed and placed on its side on special grates with enough distance between the slabs so the air can circulate around each piece. The rib-eyes are aged for 28 days and the New York strips for 21 days. Immel adds that the starting weight plays a huge part in the resulting flavor. If the cut is too big, you lose flavor. Therefore, the steaks are aged in small batches. They start with an average of 18 pounds of rib-eye and 15 or so pounds of New York strips. To get an idea of how much moisture is lost, the beef normally loses about 12 percent to 15 percent of the starting weight after it comes out of the aging room.

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