Ethnic.City: El Señor Taco

posted on December 30, 2010 at 9:09 am

Tucked into the same Buford Highway strip mall that’s home to cult favorites Cóm Vietnamese Grill and Lee’s Bakery, El Señor Taco (4005 Buford Highway, 404-982-0777) is poised to become just as much of a classic. The dining room is bare-bones except for flat screen televisions, and table décor in the form of a fresh floral arrangements and the odd whole pineapple. When he’s not busy behind the scenes in the kitchen, owner David Romero works his customers with the same amount of friendly grace you’d find in a more upscale establishment.

Despite a substantial Mexican population, there’s an odd absence of fish tacos in Atlanta. Leave it to someone from Ensenada, Baja California, to fill the void. Romero moved to Atlanta just to open El Señor Taco after many of his friends told him how well a fish taco place would do here. Romero was no stranger to the business; he learned the ins and outs while working in his family’s wildly popular restaurants, El Taco Nazo and Señor Baja, back in California. The former has been open for an astounding 30 years.

You’ll be tempted to try the nonseafood items — pastor, carnitas, menudo (tripe stew), etc. — from El Señor’s small menu, but don’t bother. This place is all about the fish. If someone along for the ride is completely anti-fish, the chicken nachos made with crunchy, thick El Milagro tortilla chips draped in gooey white cheese and all the other accoutrements will pass muster.

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