Thrive: Downtown

posted on April 11, 2007 at 6:50 pm
The first thing you notice about Thrive, when you enter the door, is the startlingly short skirts the waitresses are wearing. The poor girls look uncomfortable and slightly embarrassed. To be blunt, we saw a lot of panties tonight. I have to say the restaurant is very well-decorated. Quite minimal, but very chic. I especially loved the ceiling and the lighting. The bathrooms are quite revealing. I suggest you wait until you get home.

We ordered a couple of drinks from the cocktail menu and they were good. Mine had sparkling sake in it, which was a first for me. The wine list was pretty extensive, but I would like to see them refine their reds by the glass a bit more. The dinner menu is all over the place and it closely resembles a Las Vegas room service menu. Seeing macaroni and cheese with smoked ham next to wok seared edamame beans is just too weird to me. We ordered a couple of sushi rolls, roasted chicken, barbecued ribs, sauteed mushrooms, and homemade french fries-bizarre, right? The sushi rolls were okay. The rice tasted fresh, but the fish was fishy. They had tried to mask the quality with tempura and mayonnaise, but you just can’t hide bad fish.

My roast chicken was pretty darn good. Those of you cooking enthusiasts know the importance of a good roast chicken to the home cook and/or professional chef. The chicken had a crisp skin and was very juicy. The jus that they served on the side was a bit too intense and I just ate the chicken on its own. The accompanying mashed potatoes were rich and the ratio of ingredients was spot on. Nice texture too.

The barbecue ribs were falling off the bone, but the sauce was a bit imbalanced. The potato salad that came with the ribs was very good. Some acid and salt would have put it over the top.
The sauteed mushrooms were so-so. Good mix of varietals and fresh, but they failed to cook the water out of the poor guys and they were woefully underseasoned. The homemade french fries were anything but. Who do they think they were kidding? Those things came out of a bag.

We had some strawberry shortcake that was not half bad, but nothing special either. Nice crema on my espresso though.

Verdict: This is a tough one. I am not sure I would choose to go back there until they make some changes. They need to tighten up the menu and choose a direction. Either get more refined or just try to do strong casual menu concept. The space is very nice, but get rid of the plasmas and the short skirts. They just detract from the whole experience and make it feel cheap.

Address: 101 Marietta St
Phone: (404) 389-1000

Thrive on Urbanspoon

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