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Shaun’s: Inman Park

posted on December 14, 2006 at 8:00 am
RESTAURANT REVIEW:
I was in the neighborhood and my friend and I decided to stop in for a quick bite despite the fact that I was totally not dressed for the occasion. We thought we’d give it a try and walked in. They sat us the community table in front of the open kitchen window. The restaurant is minimally decorated. Cliff Bostock referred to it as “lodge chic” and I think that describes it well. Lots of white and nice big windows. Has a cozy neighborhood feel despite the minimal decor. After looking over the menu, we decided on the flatbread, brodo, shrimp and grits and roast chicken.

Crispy sardinian flatbread: Great idea. Massive portion of flat bread topped with argan oil, Parmesan and arugula. Many parts of the dish were so salty I could not drink enough water to get the taste out of my mouth. Seems they just over seasoned the dish. Could be a winner if they get the balance right. I like the idea of the salad on the bread. Seemed that the cheese was kept too close to heat and was sweating a bit too much and lacked the crumbling texture that the dish deserved.I also watched my dish sit for way too long after it had been prepared. Arugula is a tough lettuce but it was wilted by the time it reached my table.

Brodo with farro, berkshire pork and poached egg. Soothing and complex broth with delicious pork and well-cooked farro. Lovely dish from start to finish. The pork, which was stringy and tough in my shrimp dish, was juicy from the broth. I would go back for this dish. Wish it was a main.

White shrimp and grits with berkshire pork and poached egg: Yes, similar to my friend’s dish but I wanted to try it. I am a sucker for this dish. It looked nice in its huge glass bowl but was disappointing on the first bite. My poached egg was ice-cold. Did they not warm it after taking out of the bath? The shrimp were cooked well but almost too shrimpy if that makes any sense. They tasted like they were about to turn. The grits really screwed up the dish. They were gluey, chunky, chalky, and bland. Sad because the concept was well-though out. Simply an execution issue.

Roast chicken with beer battered sage leaves and mashed potatoes: Bland, bland, bland. Well cooked chicken but not seasoned at all. Soggy skin too. My friend, who is a roast chicken expert, said he’d had better at Costco and it is way cheaper.

Verdict: Great service and the chef looked happy in the kitchen with his staff. They have some serious kinks to work out. Timing and synergy seemed to be an issue. I need to give it another try but our general opinion was average at best.

RESTAURANT INFORMATION:

Address: 1029 Edgewood Avenue NE, 30307
Phone: 404.577.4358
Website
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