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Review: Spring offers minimalist charm in Marietta

posted on January 6, 2017 at 12:34 pm
Spring PHOTOGRAPH BY HEIDI GELDHAUSER

Spring
PHOTOGRAPH BY HEIDI GELDHAUSER

Brian So, the 28-year-old chef and owner of Spring in Marietta, does not like clutter. Good thing, too, because his restaurant—a converted train depot—doesn’t have room for much more than tables and chairs. So’s minimalism extends to his menu, which rarely boasts more than five entrees. Most importantly, it extends to his cooking, which is nuanced in its simplicity—the goal, seemingly, of every chef who has ever uttered the phrase, “Honor the ingredients.” But cooking simply should not mean being simple. Brian So gets that.

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