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Restaurant review: The Mercury

posted on August 23, 2017 at 1:02 pm
MERCURY'S NEW YORK STRIP PHOTOGRAPHED BY ERIK MEADOWS

MERCURY’S NEW YORK STRIP| PHOTOGRAPHED BY ERIK MEADOWS

Goglia has great presence as he circles the room in his suit, thick black glasses, and black hair, looking like a cross between Buddy Holly and Johnny Cash. But I wish he was behind the bar more teaching his staff how to make balanced drinks, because even though the mai tai came in a beautiful crystal glass crowned with a purple orchid, it was so sickly sweet I had to ask for extra lime juice to make it drinkable. The same fate befell my Old Fashioned, Daiquiri, and Whiskey Sour. I switched to beer during my last visit. The Ode to Viceroy, however, was a nicely tart and balanced drink of scotch, ginger, lime, and falernum. Should your party all be in the mood for the same drink, the bar offers classic cocktails such as martinis and Rob Roys made tableside.

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