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Restaurant Review: Polaris

posted on November 19, 2014 at 10:15 pm

JOEFF DAVIS

JOEFF DAVIS

When my family moved to Atlanta in 1979, we lived in the Hyatt Regency while waiting to move into our house. Some afternoons, my mom would take us up the pill-shaped elevator to the big blue dome atop the downtown hotel to take in the 22-story view of the city that we would call home.

When Polaris reopened in June after closing 10 years earlier, I was once again excited to travel up through the Hyatt’s plant-lined atrium to Polaris, the revolving restaurant that crowns the busy convention hotel. But despite any warm, fuzzy childhood memories, my present-day experiences revealed that Polaris is having a hard time getting past typical limitations that often haunt hotel restaurants.

Hotel restaurants aren’t inherently bad, but the majority end up middling at best. Perhaps it is because they try too hard, as Polaris does, to cater to a wide variety of tastes and fail to do any one thing very well. Polaris appears to want to break the hotel mold by incorporating local ingredients like H&F Bread Co. sour cherry baguettes, and honey butter made with liquid gold from the onsite beehive chef Martin Pfefferkorn manages along with a rooftop garden. But ultimately, the randomness of a dinner menu that lists anything from sushi rolls to sticky Benton’s Bacon popcorn is confusing.

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