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Restaurant Review: MF Sushi

posted on October 26, 2015 at 12:08 pm
CRISP AND CRUNCH: Fried calamari drizzled with ponzu sauce and garnished with lemon, carrots, and sprouts Photo by Eric Meadows

CRISP AND CRUNCH: Fried calamari drizzled with ponzu sauce and garnished with lemon, carrots, and sprouts
Photo by Erik Meadows

Once upon a time, brothers Alex and Chris Kinjo were at the top of Atlanta’s sushi game. Their MF Sushibar restaurant on Ponce de Leon Avenue, which opened in 2002, was some of the best sushi money could buy. They didn’t serve cooked dishes, just sushi art created by Chris “Magic Fingers” Kinjo. It was a lunch go-to and a date night destination. I was a regular.

The Kinjos opened MF Buckhead in 2007 in the Terminus building. It promised elegance. Though it had its loyalists, MF Buckhead’s hefty price tag proved too much for a city deep in an economic recession. After closing MF Sushibar in November 2011, MF Buckhead filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy and closed along with the brothers’ Vietnamese concept, NAM, in early 2012. They left Atlanta and started a restaurant in Houston. They’ve returned to the city and opened MF Sushi in Inman Park in May.

Given the crowds, Kinjo fans appear pleased to see MF return. But Atlanta has evolved into a more sophisticated restaurant town since the Kinjos left in 2012. Restaurants such as Umi, the elegant Buckhead restaurant from MF alum Chef Fuyuhiko Ito, proved Atlanta was willing to pay for a top tier sushi experience. Rather than developing a fresh perspective to distinguish itself as MF Sushibar once did on Ponce, the Kinjo brothers have more or less picked up where they left off nearly four years ago. MF Sushi in Inman Park has its moments, but overall the brothers’ latest effort feels dated and confused.

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