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Where to eat Thanksgiving turkey dinner…in August

posted on August 9, 2017 at 12:16 pm
The roast turkey plate at Mary Mac’s. PHOTOGRAPH BY TAYLOR O'SULLIVAN.

The roast turkey plate at Mary Mac’s.
PHOTOGRAPH BY TAYLOR O’SULLIVAN.

My parents were Mexican immigrants by way of Brazil and Tokyo. With such wanderlust, they were quite eccentric eaters. They didn’t stock our kitchen with Doritos, but rather pickled fish from Russia and stinky, runny cheese my dad bought in Paris during business trips. Every dinner was accompanied with spicy salsas and tortillas whether it was a lamb tagine or seafood paella. If you ever wondered what makes one become a food critic, I suspect my weird family pantry was the start.

At Thanksgiving, though, we were (sort of) like every other American family. As my sister and I grew into cooks, we infused the meal with American and Southern classics like green bean casserole, macaroni and cheese, big bowls of buttery mashed potatoes, and cornbread stuffing with sausage. Our parents always had my grandmother’s mole (a spicy sauce with a hint of chocolate) defrosted from the freezer in the garage. Thanksgiving was and remains my favorite holiday, and as summer ends, I get impatient for the holidays and the bounty of comfort food that awaits. However, I don’t believe in waiting for Thanksgiving to eat roast turkey when plenty of places around Atlanta serve it year-round.  You can even get a whole turkey dinner with all the trimmings (pumpkin pie included) on a random Tuesday if you’re feeling festive, which is a reason to give thanks even if it is still pool weather.

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Miss Gogi puts its own spin on Korean barbecue

posted on August 7, 2017 at 12:09 pm
A steak on the grill, along with kimchi, vegetables, cheesy corn, and more PHOTOGRAPH BY JENNIFER ZYMAN.

A steak on the grill, along with kimchi, vegetables, cheesy corn, and more
PHOTOGRAPH BY JENNIFER ZYMAN.

Atlanta has one of the most vibrant Korean food scenes I’ve ever encountered. Numerous sub-genres of Korean cooking are represented here—tofu houses, bibimbap joints, Korean fried chicken, dumplings, Korean shabu shabu—mostly in Duluth, Suwanee, and beyond. And within Korean barbecue, you’ll find all sorts of different cooking styles, from the inverted cast iron griddles at Honey Pig to charcoal barbecue over shiny grates at 9292.

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Restaurant Review: Bread and Butterfly

posted on July 26, 2017 at 1:11 pm
Moules frites with saffron aioli. Photographed by Erik Meadows

Moules frites with saffron aioli. Photographed by Erik Meadows

I knew I was falling in love with Bread & Butterfly, the new Inman Park restaurant from Cakes & Ale owners Billy and Kristin Allin, after the second bite of my mushroom French dip sandwich during my first visit. The rye bread was crunchy and generously buttered. Gooey strands of Gruyère dangled from the dark brown stewed mushrooms and onions. I dipped the sandwich in the red wine jus and, as I ate, forgot that a French dip is supposed to have beef. The sandwich was unexpected at a place so whimsically French, a place where I anticipated steak frites and a glass of wine, not a crave-inducing vegetarian sandwich.

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