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MidCity Cuisine: Atlanta

posted on January 12, 2006 at 2:03 pm

RESTAURANT REVIEW:
I never got a chance to eat at Iris before it closed but I heard that the food was wonderful. The chef, Nicolas, moved over to MidCity Cuisine so I thought I would go check it out since they just put out a new menu with many items from Iris’ menu. We opted for a tasting menu and wine pairing so we could try various things.

We started with Peekytoe Crab Fritter which was accompanied by a Mache salad and mustard sauce made with 3 kinds of mustard, crème fraiche, capers and anchovies. The fritter was crisp and the meat was sweet and very fresh. We then moved onto a Foie Gras “Torchon” served with a cranberry compote, sauternes jellies and warm brioche. I normally prefer my Foie Gras to be seared. However, the contrast of flavor and textures made for an interesting and enjoyable dish. The Yellowfin Tuna Tartare was next. It was served in a compact tower with Wakame salad on the bottom and a crispy sesame wafer on top. Nice flavor. We then had roasted yellow beets, aged goat cheese and a 12 Year old Balsamico. The beets were thinly sliced and neatly stacked with a generous slab of goat cheese. The three flavors were wonderful together. We then had a Veuve Cliquot sorbet which was really a treat. It was amazing. Just sweet enough.

On to the mains. We had a roasted Muscovy duck which was served with wilted escarole, smoked bacon and huckleberry Sauce. I had never had duck with huckleberries but what a combination. The duck was rare which was right on for the dish. The escarole was well-prepared too. Not too salty and the bacon provided an amazing smoky flavor. This was my favorite dish of the night. The seared Turbot filet was next. The fish was very fresh and had a nice flaky texture and the saffron sauce was very good. I was not a big fan of the gnocchi and greens. They were too salty and just overwhelmed the delicate and subtle fish.

Dessert was next. We started with a blueberry soup topped with whipped cream and served with a Madeline. It was interesting but I am not a big fan of fruit soups. The item that followed was the best dessert I’ve had in quite a while. It was a goat cheese cake made with three types of goat cheese, mascarpone, and a crushed pistachio topping. It was served with caramelized figs. The texture of the cake was amazing. Very innovative. Our last course was a cappuccino ‘Semifreddo served with sugar & spice doughnuts. The semifreddo was creamy and not overwhelmingly sweet. The doughnuts were perfectly prepared and I could have sworn they used a whole wheat dough. Quite a nice dish. I wasn’t crazy about the wine pairing. I felt there could have been better selections but the food was good so I will be returning.

RESTAURANT INFORMATION:
Address: 1545 Peachtree St
Phone: 404-888-8700
Website: MidCity Cuisine
Cuisine: American (New)

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