Just a little peek at Varasano’s Pizzeria

posted on March 28, 2009 at 6:42 pm
It is way too soon to say anything about Varasano’s, but I did want to give you a look at my first visit. Stay tuned for my thoughts on the pies…
Varasano's Pizzeria: Buckhead


Varasano's Pizzeria: Buckhead


Varasano's Pizzeria on Urbanspoon
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  • Re: Just a little peek at Varasano’s Pizzeria
    posted by: Waylo · March 29, 2009  5:45 PM

    Just got back from Varasano’s tonight (Sunday). Jeff was in and mingling amongst the tables for much of the time we were there. My table was able to grab him for a few minutes to talk serious pizza talk despite the place being pretty busy. I’ve been following his web site for many years and owe Blissful for mentioning the opening of his restaurant on an earlier post as I had no idea.

    I’ve had the pleasure of eating at several of the NY and CT pizzarias which Jeff emulates his pizza after and I have to say he’s pretty well on target. This is the type of pizza I was dying for in Atlanta for a long long time (Shorty’s in Decatur is similar–thin crispy crust, but still nowhere close). And then I moved far far away. But at least this gives me a good reason to come back.

    We were able to get in with maybe a 5 minute wait. There aren’t large signs up for the place so it’s easy to miss right now… it’s on the ground floor of a luxury condo highrise building. The price point is decent, ~$11-16/pie, which is not bad for someone whose obsession with pizza is well known.

    The 3 of us ordered the Margherita, the Nana, and the clam pizza. All great. I think a hungry person would be able to eat a whole pie since the crust is pretty thin.

    Per Jeff, there’re still some growing pains to work through as this was only the 5th day (i.e. getting the dough just right every single night), but I truly hope this place succeeds.

  • Re: Just a little peek at Varasano’s Pizzeria
    posted by: Joshua · April 1, 2009  3:26 PM

    Was there last night, mostly packed space at 8:30, though we waited a long time for the first pie to come out, growing pains I suppose. Here are some thoughts.

    First, all of the ingredients taste fresh, simple and in many ways classic. The dough is thin, tastes like a very good yeast dough should, and the cook time has the crust cooked, with just a few black spots (as it should), while the cheese has the super-fast melted texture of high-heat ovens.

    This and Fritti represent two of the best pizzas in the city. Is it NYC? Ummm, no. It is not at the level of the best in NYC or Italy (or New Haven! – which has really great pizza), mainly because the attention to the dough doesn’t seem to have been matched with the same level of attention on the sauce or cheese. The sauce is good, it’s just not incredible, it tastes a bit thin, as if either dolloping more, or adding a touch of heat underneath (or a touch longer cooking time) would richen it. It simply needs a bit more flavor. Next, the cheese is good and we did not choose the bufala mozzarella, but I think the mozzarella did not taste as bright or creamy as I would have liked.

    All in all, a very good offering, much better than Mellow Mushroom, etc., and on par with Fritti. I would go back, to see how the pace and pies transform in coming weeks.

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