posted on July 6, 2006 at 2:27 am
My Dad and I decided to go to Vegas for a couple of nights and he charged me with the task of deciding which restaurants we were eating at. One of my choices was Joel Robuchon at the Mansion in the MGM Grand. However, we walked by after our meal at Craftsteak to check out the menu and nothing jumped out to us. My father suggested Guy Savoy’s new restaurant and so we canceled JR and got a reservation at Guy Savoy for the next night. I had eaten at Guy Savoy’s restaurant Paris and it remains one of my favorites in the world.
When we walked in, Guy’s son greeted us. He is running the Las Vegas location with his father’s guidance of course. He is doing quite a good job. The restaurant is completely contemporary and chic. No old-world French decor to be found here. Nothing wrong with that just a nice change of pace since my last meal of this kind was at Ducasse. The service was impeccable from the beginning. They brought a stool for my purse, which I just, adored. The champagne cart was brought over and I chose Billecart-Salmon Rose. One of my favorite champagnes. We were presented with a toasted foie gras sandwich on a metal skewer, which was delightful. After much coaxing, my father agreed to the Menu Prestige…their 10 course tasting menu. My father was presented the wine list, which was literally an encyclopedia-sized book with its own table. They have a 12,000-bottle cave so I guess it makes sense. That book was intimidating…I even saw my Dad (who has a 16,000 bottle cellar and knows a lot about wine) look a bit bewildered. The bread sommelier…yes bread sommelier followed with the first of our bread pairings. Hilarious. I know you are curious how the meal was so I will go through each course and give you my opinion. We unfortunately did not take any pictures because I did not want to disturb the subdued elegance that the restaurant tries so hard to maintain. I hope my descriptions are sufficient.
Course one: Oysters in Ice gelee.
Simple oyster served on a gelee. The real delight was a surprise slice of crisp black truffle under the dish holding the oyster. I love how his sense of humor comes out in his food.
Course two: Peas all round.
Quite a delicious approach to a simple yet perfect ingredient. He started with a layer of pureed peas mixed with a gelatin to help set the base. He then topped with twice-shelled peas and micro-pea shoots. Then topped it with a poached egg. Delicious. I am definitely going to be making this in my kitchen.
Course three (pictured on the bottom link): Crispy sea bass with delicate spices.
This was great. They had taken the scales and fried them to a crisp before topping the fish with them. The fish was buttery and served over some leeks with buttery foam. Seems simple but it was prepared so perfectly it stood out as a favorite.
Course four: Roasted foie gras and red cabbage nage, savoy cabbage, horseradish and mustards.
These are two flavors I would have never thought of together but oh my…. the earthiness of the cabbage was perfect with the foie gras. One of my top 3 dishes of the night.
Course five: Spinach and mushroom gratin.
Another simple but amazing dish. This is one of the first dishes to make me moan in quite some time. My Dad loved it as well. It was a simple cascade of mushrooms in buttery and nutty mushroom foam with spinach. I do not know what made it so good. I just loved every bite.
Course six (pictured on the bottom link): artichoke and black truffle soup, toasted mushroom brioche with black truffle butter.
This was a miss. The soup tasted like nothing. The slices of black truffle and pecorino were nice. However, the soup needed the cream they had chosen to add and much more salt. The brioche was so good though. Heaven.
Course seven (pictured on the bottom link): crispy sweetbreads, petit potatoes and black truffle sandwiches.
He hit it out of the park with this one. Perfect sweetbreads accompanied by sandwiches of crisp slices of small potatoes and slices of black truffle. There was also an amazing turnip mixture in the center to offset the richness of the sweetbreads.
Course eight: selection of cheeses
The selection was just overwhelming. I had some delicious goats and blues. I do not remember what they were though.
Course nine: avocado and pineapple–creamy avocado mousse, pineapple sorbet on top of diced pineapple.
Oh my god. Avocado Mousse with pineapple? Pinch me. Sweet, tart and tangy. I have to replicate that at home.
Course ten: chocolate fondant, crunchy praline and chicory cream.
Nice dessert. Nothing awe-inspiring but well prepared and tasty.
Course eleven: The candy cart
Macarons, rose rice pudding, sugar spirals on sticks…I could barely eat another bite but I found a way to taste these delicacies.
We then retired out onto their open-air patio for after-dinner drinks and for my father, the cigar menu. My father kept repeating how civilized the whole experience was and I agreed. We finished our remaining bits of drink and headed out the door with a box of chocolates in hand. Smiles on our faces…of course.
Here is a link to some photos of my dishes from Guy Savoy’s website