posted on March 20, 2010 at 11:51 am
Shortly after posting the news of its opening, I visited The Kind Pie in Buckhead for a little nosh. The place–which has been open since January–is as small as a shoebox, but it was filled with the smell of this roasted Berkshire pork Porchetta. Color me blissful.
Since orders take a bit longer due to the one-man show, I hung around and chatted him up while he made my order. What a nice man. He has loads of good stories and he waxed poetic about the industry, ingredients, and food–of course. He is baking all of his own bread using a mix of organic flours, including whole wheat.
He piled the porchetta onto the bread to make this monster of a sandwich (“The Mushy,” Roasted Berkshire Pork Butt, Provolone, Broccoli Rabe, Bomba Calabrese, Organic Balsamic Vinegar an olive oil).
The carefully sourced fillings were lovely, but the bread was was too doughy for me and the ingredients got kind of lost. Another type of bread and I’d be sold on the sandwich. Maybe it was just an off bread day? The menu has loads of other kooky sandwiches (e.g. The Harry Bag of Frigin’ Donuts, The Fugazi, etc.) that I would like to try again. Since the place is called The Kind Pie, I opted for my litmus pizza, a Margherita. This is it right before it went into the oven:
And after it came out replete with his tongue-in-cheek dipping sauce.
I wanted to like the pizza *a lot* more than I did. However, it’s made with the same type of whole-wheat based dough as the bread, and was a little overworked. I am just not the biggest fan of any whole-wheat dough, but appreciate there being options for people who do like that style. He’s also working on a gluten-free version. The crust was crackly, but it didn’t have loads of flavor. The ingredients on the pie, however, were beautiful. He’s using Bufala mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes and loads of other good products. He was quick to say this pizza is not like Antico or Varasano’s. I need to visit again before I render my verdict, but urge you to visit this fun Buckhead pizzeria for its character alone.