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First Impression: Giving Fritti another shot

posted on March 27, 2009 at 7:56 am
Fritti and I have had a rocky relationship over the years. It was my go-to spot for pizza Margherita until the quality took a sharp dive. The flavors were muddled (read: off) and the crusts increasingly floppy. I stopped going. But my interest was piqued when I heard chef/owner Riccardo Ullio had hired a new pizza chef from Naples, Italy. I was there as fast as my schedule permitted. The visit–save my server pouring the last drops of wine glass number one into number two–did not disappoint.

Fritti: Inman Park
I went with the pizza Margherita, which I consider a solid litmus test for a chef’s skills. The flavors of my pizza were spot on; it tasted like Italy. The San Marzano sauce was bright, acidic and just thick enough to prevent any wateriness. The Bufala was incredibly creamy and chewy. The flavor and density of the dough–made with 00 Caputo flour, natural yeast and sea salt–was perfect. The crust wasn’t as charred as I normally prefer, but I appreciated the hints of smoke from the wood burning oven. Perhaps the oven temperature was slightly lowered by the amount of pizzas being made to serve the packed dining room? Whatever the case, the crust was still crackly enough. There was the expected sogginess from the water the fresh mozzarella lets off when cooked at such high temperatures. I know that oven can do better as seen in the picture I took there in 2006:
Fritti

Verdict: Is it the best pizza Margherita I have ever had? No, but the pizza was delicious and each bite transported me to Italy. I’ll definitely be back. Varasano’s is next.

INFORMATION
Address: 309 North Highlands Avenue, 30307
Phone: 404-880-9559
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3 comments

  • Re: First Impression: Giving Fritti another shot
    posted by: Anonymous · March 27, 2009  10:42 AM

    Bliss when are you going to try Varasano’s?

    I hear it’s the best!

    THE BEST!!!!!!!!

  • Re: First Impression: Giving Fritti another shot
    posted by: Ciambellina · March 29, 2009  7:26 AM

    Glad to hear the new pizza chef gets your stamp of approval. I, too, very much want to go back to give the pizza another try!

  • Re: First Impression: Giving Fritti another shot
    posted by: Anonymous · April 3, 2009  12:15 PM

    bliss

    I’ll be trying Fritti tonight and will let you know what I think.

    Do they make a French Bread pizza style?

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