posted on August 11, 2010 at 10:24 am
“Grandma” shuffles up to our table enveloped in a halo of modesty and pride. The apron-and hairnet-clad sliver of a woman acts as the owner and head chef of Woo Nam Jeong (5953 Buford Highway, 678-530-0844), a restaurant that you need to make your top priority the next time you have a hankering for Korean food. Woo Nam Jeong, or Stone Bowl House as many people call it, looks like your typical modern Korean restaurant — floor-to-ceiling blonde wood, private cubbyhole dining areas, and a flurry of scurrying, super-attentive servers. However, Woo Nam Jeong is a little different from most Korean spots. Grandma is an insanely talented chef who makes everything from standard gut-busting Korean comfort fare to a 12-course tasting menu.
The tasting menu — which costs $59.95 for two people — is a great opportunity to jump headfirst into Korean cuisine. Grandma mixes up more obscure dishes and an impeccable assortment of banchan — such as smooth, white pine nut porridge and battered and pan-fried Korean squash — with more novice-friendly dishes, such as puffy fried filets of pollock drizzled with a spicy sauce, and sesame seed-encrusted drumsticks of Korean fried chicken. The meal finishes with a glutinous, flat rice cake and one final taste: a shallow bowl of cinnamon-infused water.
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