Cheap Eats: Nak Dong Gang (CLOSED)

posted on April 17, 2009 at 7:45 am
Nak Dong Gang
It’s a rare occasion when a food writer is in a position to introduce someone to his country’s own cuisine. But that is exactly the situation I found myself in the other day when brunching at Nak Dong Gang Restaurant (7130 Buford Highway, Doraville, 770-242-0201). One of my companions was Gene Lee, the author of the formidable Atlanta food blog Eat Drink Man … A Food Journal ( Lee’s pristinely plated dishes, breathtaking photos and steadfast devotion to all things culinary make his site my undisputed favorite in the city. Given his prowess-especially with homespun Korean dishes inspired by his beloved mother’s cooking-I was surprised to learn he’d never eaten Korean-style duck, the specialty at Nak Dong Gang. A visit was in order. So, we bypassed the brunch flapjacks in favor of birds that quack.
Nak Dong Gang is simply decorated, but sleek with its dark wood and high-end grills built into each table. Servers are friendly and helpful even if their English is spotty. But there’s only one good reason to trek to this restaurant on the upper stretch of Buford Highway: the duck. Whole smoked duck is slow-cooked outside on a spiffy smoker before being delivered to your table for grilling. The meat is sliced and fanned out on a platter, each piece with a sexy layer of duck fat on top of the smoked pink meat. Once it’s cooking, you can remove the meat whenever you want, but I try leaving it until most of the fat has rendered, resulting in what’s essentially some insanely delicious duck bacon. Click here to read the rest…

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