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Cheap Eats: Delia’s Chicken Sausage Stand

posted on May 4, 2011 at 11:46 am

Located along a grey stretch of Atlanta’s culinary real estate, Delia’s Chicken Sausage Stand (489 Moreland Ave., 404-474-9651, www.thesausagestand.com) is small, but packs a sensory punch. There’s a bright, well-conceived design; kitschy names for even kitschier menu items; deep-orange wallpaper emblazoned with pop art-esque logos; and a metro rack of merchandise. At first glance, it seems owners Molly Gunn of the Porter Beer Bar and Delia Champion of the Flying Biscuit Café have thought of everything.

Looks can be deceiving.

Champion and Gunn should be hailed for using Springer Mountain Farms chicken (an excellent antibiotic-free and humanely raised bird that’s fed a vegetable diet) to make their small-batch sausages. But the recipe — which the website says Champion “perfected over 15 years” — could still use work. No matter how you order your sausage, or how many toppings you pile on, the intense dried herbs overwhelm the juicy flavor of the meat.

The menu is broken down into slingers (a jumbo link sausage), breakfast anytime, sliders, and sides and drinks. Simpler is better. Hoagie rolls sourced from H&F Bread Co. are pillowy soft and provide supreme squishability, but they fall apart if you choose something that’s heavier on the toppings. One of my younger dining companions remarked on the problem while eating the Gunn Slinger (a sausage loaded with guacamole, salsa and fresh jalepeños), asking, “How am I supposed to eat this?” and then breaking into the mantra, “Difficult, difficult, difficult!”

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