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Cheap Eats: ‘cue

posted on July 28, 2010 at 10:35 am

FOOD GROUP: Boutique barbecue where everything is homemade

BACKSTORY: Paul Doster left his post as chef at the famed barbecue joint Swallow at the Hollow to branch out on his own. Doster is always there, in his whites, making the rounds from table to table, which adds a charming personal feel to his souped-up barbecue shack.

SAUCEY: Georgia barbecue has long been ridiculed for not having its own style. But isn’t Georgia’s style of barbecue about combining what’s best about other regional barbecues? Doster plays to diners’ allegiances — and prejudices — by offering a trio of homemade sauces: a vinegar-based sauce via North Carolina, a mustard-based tribute to South Carolina, and a sweet, peppery tomato-based tribute to Tennessee. Mix them up or go pure.

MEAT ME: Baby back ribs are inconsistent. Read: tender on some visits, tough on others. The brisket follows the same sad path despite having a beautiful pink ring of smoke. The chicken, however, wows each time. You can get it pulled on a sandwich or served in a monstrous half-bird portion you’ll be picking at well after the bill is paid.

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One comment

  • Re: Cheap Eats: ‘cue
    posted by: KenBud · July 28, 2010  11:08 AM

    Man .. those pickles …. are incredible. I ordered a batch to go! … And ur right, the bread is really incredible. Just SMELLING me made me melt. Being from NC I’m incredibly picky about my BBQ, but this place surprised me. There sides were some of the best i’ve had in metro Atlanta!

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