Atlanta food and restaurant blog | The Blissful Glutton » Doraville

Cheap Eats: Wings House

blissfulglutton — Fri, 11 Jun 2010 20:28:07 +0000

FOOD GROUP: Fried wings and things.MEAL PLAN: Wings House is one of the first eateries to pop up in the massive new development that houses the shiny Doraville Super H Mart and the discount oddity that is Brandsmart. The restaurant’s proprietor is a friendly young guy—with an amazing ability to remember customers after only one visit—who’s more than happy to steer you in the right direction based on your cravings.

WINGIN’ IT: While other wings spots serve oversized specimens lacking flavor, Wings House gets it right with wings on the smaller end of the spectrum. You can choose from fourteen different flavors, with more on the way according to the Facebook page. All of the wings taste fresher than fresh and are fried to a perfect crisp before they’re coated with just enough sauce or flavoring to make it pop. The spicy flavor is damn hot, but there are so many other cool options to sample. Case and point: the powdered ranch. The wings are coated in a tangy and salty powdered ranch dressing that makes its way into each nook and cranny. The braised wings are sweet and tender with little pieces of caramelized crispies for textural interest.

Click here to read the rest…

Wings House: Doraville

blissfulglutton — Wed, 07 Apr 2010 12:25:04 +0000

I blame Moon for my wings addiction. Ever since we discovered Jamal’s, we fall back on the tiny wing shack for lazy dinners. Like any good fiends, we stalked Wings House each time we were at the new Super H Mart in Doraville. Moon Junior and I finally stopped in for a quick lunch before doing some grocery shopping last weekend. She got the lemon pepper and I got a mix of ranch powder and spicy buffalo wings.

The wings were spectacular. The chicken and oil was super fresh, and they fried the wings–which were the perfect size–to a wonderful crisp. The ranch powder style wings were a revelation. Dry, but kind of creamy due to the ranch seasoning. I want some now. My only complaint was the meager serving of celery and carrots. I’d like to see them throw a few more pieces in the orders.

Our meals came with an abundance of french fries, which were good for frozen. And I loved the seasoning options. We went with the “magic dust.”

Verdict: Damn good wings worth a stop if you are in the area. I would even consider making a trip from downtown for an order. Yeah, I liked them that much.

Website

Cheap Eats: Chef Liu

blissfulglutton — Wed, 13 Jan 2010 01:38:00 +0000

Leek pie at Chef Liu

Mention Shanghai soup buns (or Xiao long bao) to hardcore chowhounds and watch as their faces contort into a mixed expression of passion and longing. There’s something about these juicy soup-filled pork dumplings that makes everyone just a little weak in the knees – when they’re done right, that is. Chef Liu (5221 Buford Highway, 770-936-0532) was once the only place to get a decent version in Atlanta. But then Chef Liu’s soup buns fell on hard times. They were tough, mournfully soupless, and many diners reported seeing them come out of a freezer bag. The restaurant recently moved from the tiny shack that made it famous to the old Asam House location in the same shopping center, and the relocation seems to have resolved the dumpling problem. The delicate skins of the dumplings now bulge with juices, tender pork and subtle hints of green onion. A splash of tangy soy dipping sauce counteracts the inherent richness of the dish. They are better than they’ve ever been.

The menu has grown to a full four pages of specialties built on a foundation of core dishes that made the former location a hot spot. The little shack had personality but regulars agreed that the sticky tabletops and ramshackle furniture made you want to flee immediately after that last dumpling or noodle went down your gullet. The new space is relatively larger and has a partitioned-off dining room for special events. There’s not much in the way of decor, but the ambiance is much more inviting.

Other dumpling fillings, such as plump, fresh shrimp or earthy lamb, are packed into homemade dumpling skins until they burst. Pan-fried pork dumplings are crisp on the bottom and a bite into the doughy bun releases a flood of concentrated pork-y juiciness. The leek pie – a flaky pastry shell filled with clear noodles, egg and loads of leeks – is just crisp enough to hold the entire thing together bite after bite. The crust of the Mandarin pork pancake is at once light and dense. And the pork filling is fragrant with a mysterious blend of spices and strong notes of cinnamon.

Continue Reading “Ethnic.city: Chef Liu”

The Bliss List: 2009

blissfulglutton — Fri, 01 Jan 2010 16:33:00 +0000

Around this time of year, tons of “best of” lists pop up all over the web. They’re useful if you like to stay on top of what’s new, but I don’t like to do such lists for The Blissful Glutton. I don’t only eat at new restaurants.

My annual “Bliss List” is a compilation of all the old and new spots I went to the most in the past year. Is there no better testament to a place than multiple return visits? I think not.

So, without further ado, I present you with my favorite haunts of 2009 in no particular order.

How many have you been to?

Hot and numbing craziness at Tasty China, a San Gennaro pie and cannoli at Antico Pizza Napoletana, convivial dining and Japanese homestyle grub at Shoya Izakaya and Al’s quirky hospitality and gorgeous Turkish salads at Cafe Agora.

Gut-bomb madness at Fox Bros. BBQ, craveable comfort food at Carver’s Grocery, the massive menu of Mexican dishes at Taqueria Oaxaqueña and Korean milk toast from White Windmill (or any other bakery that makes it).

The unrivaled Tonkotsu ramen at Yakitori Jinbei, ooey gooey cheeseteaks at Roy’s Cheesesteaks, snappy dogs and sweet homemade onion rings at Barker’s and perfect petit fours from Rhodes Bakery.

Any meal at Holeman & Finch Public House that included the burger or carbonara, bbq noodles and rice at Ming’s BBQ, awesome burgers in a cool setting at Grindhouse Killer Burgers and thinly sliced brisket cooked over charcoal at Hanil Kwan.

Chef Bruce Logue’s Italian deliciousness at La Pietra Cucina, anything from Octane Coffee, a chopped vegetable salad and New York Strip from BLT Steak, and lemon pepper wings at Jamal’s Buffalo Wings.

David Sweeney’s vegetarian masterpieces at Dynamic Dish, the spaghetti and meatballs at Shaun’s pasta night, the farm egg appetizer and braised rabbit at Miller Union and a pristine bowl of Chirashi Don from Sushi House Hayakawa.

Kamal Grant’s sinfully Sublime doughnuts, pork belly and taro casserole at Wan Lai, the burger at Bocado and shopping, lunch and general food porn at Star Provisions.

The Bliss List: 2009 Map

A last supper at Shoya Izakaya

blissfulglutton — Mon, 07 Dec 2009 14:56:00 +0000

Moon and I got hitched on November 21.

The day after the wedding, we fled like fugitives to Paris for our honeymoon and ate what can only be described as a shameful amount of food. But before we get to the all the gory honeymoon gluttony, I want to jump back to a meal before the wedding: the last meal with my parents and sister as a single woman.

For this meal, Japanese was, without a doubt, the only cuisine worthy of such a bittersweet occasion–we are the sentimental sort–because my parents, who will celebrate their 35th wedding anniversary in 2010, started their lives together in Tokyo.

We didn’t want stuffy. We didn’t want sushi. We wanted Japanese soul food in a comforting setting. So, we braved the drive from downtown to Shoya.

Shoya has never been my favorite Japanese spot in Atlanta, but there is a certain conviviality about the place that makes it so very special.

As I predicted, my family went crazy on the menu and ordered way too much food. The meal was perfectly delicious and memorable.

Here’s a taste of what we ordered:

Fried baby shrimp

Housemade oshinko (pickles): we ordered two they were so good.

Miso soup with baby clams

Agedashi tofu (fried tofu in ponzu)

Grilled chicken skin

Grilled squid

Tonkotsu ramen

INFORMATION:

6035 Peachtree Rd. A-101
Doraville, GA 30360
(770) 457-5555

Website

Mouthful: Ethnic soups

blissfulglutton — Sat, 31 Oct 2009 10:53:00 +0000

RINCON LATINO: Latinos consider chicken soup to be a complete meal. Every country and region has its own version. At Rincon, the caldo de pollo has more of an El Salvadorian slant. A large bowl of clear chicken broth studded with submerged pieces of tender bone-in chicken comes with a bowl of white rice, oversized El Salvadorian corn tortillas, minced cilantro, chopped onion and jalapeño. You can doctor the soup to your tastes or make a few tacos with a juicy chunk of chicken plucked from the broth. 5055 Buford Highway, Doraville. 770-936-8181.

SO KONG DONG: Forget one-dimensional soups when you are sick. Your body needs a jolt, and a bubbling pot of Korean tofu soup from this tofu house — the kimchee style in particular — is just what the doctor ordered. After a parade of panchan (including one of those little fried fish), the waitress rolls out a cart holding midnight black cast iron bowls perched on tiny wooden coasters. Due to the intense heat of the vessel, the soup bubbles and spurts in front of you — too hot to eat even though you know you want to dive in. Click here to read the rest…

Creative Loafing Food Issue 2009: 10 ethnic dishes to eat before you die

blissfulglutton — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 20:59:00 +0000

Beef short ribs (Kalbi) at Chosun Ok: For Korean barbecue, there are three criteria that separate the men from the boys: The restaurant must use charcoal instead of gas or electric grills; the marinade has to be balanced; and the panchan (side items) should be plentiful and fresh. This quirky restaurant gets all three right every time. 5865 Buford Highway, Doraville. 770-452-1821.

Gordita at Gordita’s La Rancherita: The restaurant’s namesake dish rivals any version you’d get in Mexico. Instead of a full circle, the cook serves a big half-moon of fresh masa slit open like a loaf of pita and stuffed with creamy refried beans, shredded iceberg lettuce and gobs of salty queso fresco. The shell is crisp, but thick enough to retain a thin layer of soft masa for textural wow factor. 2055 Beaver Ruin Road, Norcross. 678-206-0107.

Baby pork belly at Honey Pig: The abundance of courses and dishes at this unique Korean spot will floor the most gluttonous stomachs. The signature “honey pig” or baby pork belly is cooked on a butter-soaked cast-iron dome, and is pure fatty and pork-y goodness. Wrap it up with a smear of bean paste on a crisp lettuce leaf and you’re in pig heaven. 3473 Old Norcross Road, Duluth. 770-476-9292.

Sesame paste noodles at Chef Liu: While the soup dumplings – when good – are a cult favorite, the sesame paste noodles are a consistent guilty pleasure. Click here to read the rest…

Chef Liu 2.0

blissfulglutton — Wed, 23 Sep 2009 20:59:00 +0000

Chef Liu is taking over the space recently vacated by Asam House, which is in the same shopping center. The move is supposed to happen sometime in October and I’m super excited about what the kitchen will be able to churn out with even more space than the currently tiny digs. And if today’s meal was any indication of what the food at the new space will be like, I’d say Chef Liu’s fans have loads and loads of good grub to look forward to.

We only ordered a few things, because I was out and about for some assignments. But the Shanghai Soup Buns or Xiaolongbao were plump with soup (not deflated and sad), perfectly seasoned and the skin was incredibly delicate. They actually tasted better than ever. You’ll have to take me on my word because I didn’t have enough time to grab a picture–Shanghai Soup Buns wait for no one.

We also ordered the leek pie (above) and another favorite, the sticky and nutty sesame paste noodles (below).

Both were gorgeous. I wish I’d had less self control, but I had to hit three other restaurants afterwards. I’ll keep you posted on the “grand opening” with a follow-up visit. But please get over there if you’ve never been. It’s not for everyone, but I love it.

Mouthful: Korean Barbecue, the charcoal edition

blissfulglutton — Sat, 23 May 2009 12:12:00 +0000

The “bread skin” (thinly sliced brisket) at Hanil Kwan

HANIL KWAN: Unlike many Korean barbecue establishments, this restaurant shies away from the dark, cavernous look and feel. Instead, the dining room is filled with natural light that pours in from the many windows. Any of the marinated beef selections are tops. But step outside of your comfort zone and order the “bread skin,” thin slices of marbled beef that curl and caramelize on the charcoal grill. The banchan is the only drawback, as it tends to be a little limp on most occasions. However, the large varieties of beef and excellent service make up for this shortcoming. 5458 Buford Highway, Doraville. 770-457-3217.

CHOSUN OK: The atmosphere at this “reclaimed” restaurant is as drab and rundown as it gets on Buford Highway, but the food is always fresh and superb. The restaurant utilizes charcoal — a key element in attaining a caramelized char — and the marinade is well-balanced and flavorful enough to permeate the meat. A generous assortment of banchan — from crunchy chunks of radish drenched in kimchi to roasted new potatoes — changes from visit to visit. Click here to read the rest...

Ming’s Bar B Q: Duluth

blissfulglutton — Mon, 18 May 2009 11:44:00 +0000

Ming’s is one of those restaurant that most Chinese food lovers could not live without. It’s tiny, crowded and the massive menu can overwhelm. But it is one of the crown culinary jewels along the Buford Highway corridor. And now they’ve opened a new location in Duluth, which, to me, is as good as an eating destination as Doraville–especially if you are a Korean food fool like myself.

The new Ming’s is swankier than the original. The owner’s son told us they were trying to recreate the feel of Tea houses in Hong Kong, places people go in the afternoon for milk tea and snacks. So, the new Ming’s has certain breakfast items like this eggy Hong Kong style French toast with butter.

Since we were with a large group, we ordered many of our favorite dishes. They were all exceptional although some items–like the beef chow fun–are better at the original location. However, “Old Man Ming”–as Moon likes to call him even though he is quite young–was either in the kitchen monitoring quality closely or sweetly smirking at our table’s gluttony from his perch near the cashier. I expect it will only get better. Here’s what we ate:

Meat sampler of barbecue pork, crispy roast pork and roast duck: Every single item was gorgeous. But the standout was the crispy roast pork. Oh-my-god good.

Clams with bay leaf: They were fresh, tasty and gone in a flash. I like to add a dash of red vinegar and chili to this dishes for some bite.

Beef chow fun: This could have used a touch more sauce in my opinion. I had a delicious version at the original location the week prior when dining with Chloe from Chowdown Atlanta (who also reviewed the new location) that was a perfect representation of everything chow fun can and should be.

Fried seafood (shrimp, scallops and squid): All of the seafood was very fresh and tasty. The batter could have used a touch more salt, but the chili sauce (located on every table) boosted the flavors considerably.

Snow pea leaves sauteed in garlic: This was probably the best version I’ve had in ages. Slightly sweet, garlicky and a nice amount of crunch without those narsty cornstarch based sauces so many restaurants pile on vegetable dishes.

Fried rice with Chinese sausage, roast pork and egg: My Cantonese friend, Kit, likes to make fun of me for eating fried rice. Well, this is one “gringo dish” I will gladly consume even if it affects my credibility. Good food is good food. I would order it again and again.

Thousand year egg (pickled egg) and pork rice congee: My friends are probably sick of hearing me say this, but I am just not wowed by any of the congee I’ve had in Atlanta. There is this spot call Ton Kiang in San Francisco that has spoiled me for life; its congee is the best. My prejudices didn’t stop everyone from scarfing this done. Moon’s 10-year old daughter even had 3 bowls. He’s trained her well.

Chicken wings: We saw an order of these crispy suckers go by to another table and just had to get them. No sauce or anything, but they were super juicy and crispy. I added Sriracha to mine. The oil could have been a touch fresher, but no matter. We killed the plate.

Verdict: An awesome addition to Duluth. While many of us ITP folk will most likely continue going to the original, this is a great option for people who may be put off by the hole-in-the-wall feel of the original or just happen to live closer to Duluth.

INFORMATION:
Address: 2131 Pleasant Hill Rd., Duluth

Phone:770-623-9996