Tonight marks the inaugural dinner of the BATON supper series. The brainchildren behind the operation are these lovely folks: Moses Archuleta and Bryson Tedford.

If you recognize Moses that’s because he happens to be a member of Pitchfork darling, Deerhunter.

BATON is a little different than other supper clubs. They want to act as kind of an exchange program for chefs around the country so that others can see what Atlanta has going on and also bring a little something special to our plates. They’ll take place on the last Monday and Tuesday of every month at Gato Bizco in Candler Park. Tonight’s dinner was cooked by the couple behind M. Wells – Hugue Dufour and Sarah Obraitis- and a handful of awesome staff. If you aren’t familiar with M. Wells, it was a short-lived Québeco-American diner in Long Island City that wowed New York food lovers with its creative cuisine. Tonight, Atlanta got a taste. The theme was black pepper.

The menu.

The price point was right. The atmosphere felt very not Atlanta in a very cool way. And the food was pitch perfect Fall comfort food that tasted like it was cooked by your imaginary French Canadian grandmother. This is the rundown of what we had:

An amuse of apples with blue cheese, black pepper and sprouts.

Blue pointe oysters, coffee sabayon.

Georgia-Québec stew, oxtail, country ham, fresh corn.

Beef tongue pie, vegetable stew, tarragon, puff pastry.

Fall vegetables, shrimp butter, roots.


Liver and onions, sunchokes a la Cheryl, vermouth.

Banana cream pie.

Pudding Chômeur (I cannot describe how amazing this was).

Verdict: Tomorrow is the last night M. Wells is cooking here and while reservations are preferred, there were a lot (too many, actually) seats available tonight. You could probably still snag a seat tonight if you wanted. Not sure what time they close. Do your mouth a favor and go. No word on who is cooking at the next one, but you can sign up on BATON’s website.

Located along a grey stretch of Atlanta’s culinary real estate, Delia’s Chicken Sausage Stand (489 Moreland Ave., 404-474-9651, www.thesausagestand.com) is small, but packs a sensory punch. There’s a bright, well-conceived design; kitschy names for even kitschier menu items; deep-orange wallpaper emblazoned with pop art-esque logos; and a metro rack of merchandise. At first glance, it seems owners Molly Gunn of the Porter Beer Bar and Delia Champion of the Flying Biscuit Café have thought of everything.

Looks can be deceiving.

Champion and Gunn should be hailed for using Springer Mountain Farms chicken (an excellent antibiotic-free and humanely raised bird that’s fed a vegetable diet) to make their small-batch sausages. But the recipe — which the website says Champion “perfected over 15 years” — could still use work. No matter how you order your sausage, or how many toppings you pile on, the intense dried herbs overwhelm the juicy flavor of the meat.

The menu is broken down into slingers (a jumbo link sausage), breakfast anytime, sliders, and sides and drinks. Simpler is better. Hoagie rolls sourced from H&F Bread Co. are pillowy soft and provide supreme squishability, but they fall apart if you choose something that’s heavier on the toppings. One of my younger dining companions remarked on the problem while eating the Gunn Slinger (a sausage loaded with guacamole, salsa and fresh jalepeños), asking, “How am I supposed to eat this?” and then breaking into the mantra, “Difficult, difficult, difficult!”

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We went to the newly opened Raku Ramen + Tonkatsu, which is located next to the Super H Mart on Pleasant Hill. Being a ramen-otaku, I was super excited to eat there (especially considered the lovefest happening on other Atlanta food blogs), but our meal fell incredibly short of my expectations. Scattered service–like my husband’s ramen just never arriving.

Weak and watery broths across the board.

My ramen.

Moon junior’s ramen.

Thick tonkatsu with no flavor.

The dumplings were the only redeeming part of our entire meal. I’m sad to report that, as of today, this is not a destination. I was actually so dissatisfied with my meal that I went to Dan Moo Ji afterwards to grab some spicy rice cakes. Win.

We visited Kaleidoscope Bistro after reading a very favorable review by Christiane Lauterbach, the only person whose advice I follow when it comes to restaurants. Seriously, the woman is a goddess. I was especially intrigued by her mention of the incredible burger (big surprise). Before the burger, a little ambiance.

Berkshire pork rinds. Good form.

Really good chicken wings made with Springer Mountain Chicken and a homemade sauce that was kick-ass. I love the smattering of blue cheese just applied directly to the wings. Only downside was finding a few wings to be very undercooked.

My burger, which was honestly just okay. The meat tasted kind of like a hotel room service burger and was underseasoned. Definitely not splurge-worthy like Bocado or Five Guys. Yeah, I said Five Guys. Fries were kind of meh–definitely frozen.

Moon’s fish and chips, which he declared excellent.

Verdict: Not a destination, but I can see it why the restaurant appeals to people. It’s quirky spot with a nice patio and an interesting–although almost weirdly 90′s–menu. Can’t say I’ll be back though.

I’ve also been to Delia’s Chicken Sausage Stand a few times recently, but I am holding my tongue for my review, which will come out in Creative Loafing eventually.

In other news, according to the Georgia Asian Times, Nam Phuong (one of my favorite Vietnamese restaurants) is slated to open a second Atlanta Location on Buford Highway sometime in April. Moon also spotted a new Thai restaurant called Thai Pointe on BuHi, which we will be visiting as soon as they have had time to settle in.

Atlanta’s next big food trend is already being established: wieners. The Streatery hot dog cart has been slinging dogs around Atlanta for the past year. Holeman & Finch Public House serves a formidable homemade dog. Delia’s Chicken Sausage Stand recently opened in East Atlanta. And (top) chef Richard Blais is purportedly opening “Haute Doggery” in the old San Francisco Coffee location in Poncey-Highland. With all of these intown choices, America’s Top Dog (3352 Chamblee Tucker Road, 770-771-3823, www.americastopdog.net) might get overlooked — but it’s worth the trip.

Because its only signage says simply “Dogs Fries Burgers,” America’s Top Dog is easily missed. It’s located — perhaps appropriately — next to Little Cuba in the North Hills Shopping Center right off of I-285. Inside, the space is decorated patriotically, fitting because the restaurant specializes in all manners of regionally inspired dogs. Seriously, there’s something for you no matter whether your hot dog loyalties lie in Chicago, New York, Jersey, Los Angeles or the South. Quirky cartoony hot dog diagrams illustrate the offerings, but the most entertaining piece of décor is a large poster displaying Steve Hodgin’s “Ode to the Hot Dog.”

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It was a little after 7 on a rainy Sunday night when my husband and I, fresh off a traumatically turbulent flight, dragged ourselves through the doors of Community Q BBQ (1361 Clairmont Road, Decatur, 404-633-2080, www.communityqbbq.com). We were exhausted, hungry and frustrated because the two other places we tried were closed. Since we were so tired, we failed to notice that Community Q also had a “closed” sign on its door. Embarrassed for being one of those types of diners, you know, the kind who swoop into an establishment moments before it shutters for the night — the type of diner I cursed when I used to be a cook — I apologized profusely only to be met with the sweetest words anyone could have uttered that night: “No problem. We’re here for ya, sweetheart.”

That sentiment is at the core of Community Q’s service and intent. Table runners pinch your kids’ cheeks, seem genuinely concerned whether you’re enjoying your meal, and just “get” what it means to make someone feel at home in an establishment. Truth be told, I didn’t always like Community Q. When it first opened and despite its pedigree — one of the owners is David Roberts, a co-founder of Marietta’s Sam & Dave’s — I found the entire experience to be lackluster. The meats were cold and the flavors of most dishes were far from pronounced. About a year after it opened, however, I found myself there for lunch. My experience was entirely different. The meats, sides and service were all exceptional; a perfect example of why you should never write a place off after just one visit.

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My first took place on the morning after Halloween where I was shocked to find the restaurant PACKED. Even more shocking? The steady stream of fresh, quality food coming out of the kitchen to stock the buffet line. I mean, how often are buffets so good it makes you want to come back for more?

A plateful of exceptional chicken chilaquiles, crispy bacon, creamy scrambled eggs, and a chicken salad slider. The chilaquiles have become my go to order here

My next visits were for brunch on non-buffet days and everything was top-shelf again.

Junior got this trio of sliders.

A close-up of the fried chicken slider with honey mustard sauce.

Moon’s steak and eggs with grits.

Verdict: A great brunch destination that Atlanta deserves. Exceptional service, a talented pastry chef, and a nice assortment of brunch standards no matter what you are craving. Don’t forget to get one of the bottomless mimosas, which are a steal at $9.

Whether it’s a lunchtime taco on a random Buckhead street corner or post-show scoop of local ice cream in the Tabernacle’s parking lot, street food officially has a presence in Atlanta. The Atlanta Street Food Coalition and the events at the Sweet Auburn Curb Market have done wonders for our mobile food businesses, and lately it seems like a new one sprouts up every month. North Highland Avenue is quickly becoming a destination for portable meals. Last year’s breakout star, King of Pops, is just a block or so away from cult-favorite chef Hector Santiago’s weekend burrito stand, El Burro Pollo.

Chef Andrew Long loves the trend so much that he’s started slinging Belgian-style frites at his new stand. Located close to the entrance of Café di Sol — where Long works — the Fry Guy (www.facebook.com/atlfryguy) is the latest addition to this quirky slice of street life in Poncey-Highland.

Long had the idea for a roadside french fry stand for a while, and a trip to Pommes Frites, a Belgian-style frites spot in New York, cemented the notion. A few months ago, the Fry Guy was born.

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Hamburgers and pizza have taken over our fair city during the past couple of years, and yet another all-American childhood food fave is just raring for its time in the sun: hot dogs. Yep. Good ol’ wieners. The centerpiece of gluttonous Fourth of July eating contests, the ultimate old-school street food and arguably one of the more perfect portable meals ever created by man. I refuse to believe that Atlantans don’t recognize the beauty of a well-made hot dog, but good ones are strangely hard to find.

Located on what feels like a former industrial stretch of road five minutes from the Windy Hill exit in Marietta is Wienerz Butcher Shop and Deli (1592 Atlanta Road, 770-426-8100, www.wienerz.com). I first discovered Wienerz at the Ponce de Leon Avenue Whole Foods, where its sausages were being showcased as a local product. After finding out that it was open to the public, I learned the place was closed for renovations, but would reopen shortly. I patiently waited until the doors had opened, gave them a month or so to get settled, and then made the longish drive in search of wiener nirvana. What awaited me was a carnivore’s dream.

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My sister’s birthday for which we went to BLT Steak and had a perfect meal…except for our bossy (read: asshole) waiter and the outrageously stupid $3/person cake cutting fee for our 12 person party. Shit. I’ll cut my own damn cake for that money. The fees cost more than the cake! Our not so nice waiter made sure to tell us the pastry chef HATES it when people bring their own cakes. I am sure there is a reason restaurants charge a cake-cutting fee, but I think it is a person’s right to have their favorite birthday cake be it for nostalgia or any other reason. I still like the restaurant, but the cake situation and the waiter’s odd brand of service (e.g. telling people they couldn’t get up and mingle after they ordered because it would confuse the runners) turned me off at this restaurant I have loved since it opened.

A more low-key celebration–if you don’t count the raunchy stripper we surprised her with–was my friend Beth’s birthday. We had lots of pink bubbly, Bocado burgers taken to go (they held up amazingly well on the drive) by our friend who happens to be the chef’s fiance, and this gorgeous cake her friend ordered from Metrotainment Bakery.

There was, of course, Thanksgiving at my parent’s house in Colorado. I made a 25 lb. bird, pumpkin pies from REAL PUMPKINS (it really does make the difference) and dear old dad made his amazing turkey and mole tortas with the leftover turkey. All of those occasions were super fun, but my favorite of them all? Moon and I’s one-year anniversary. Crazy. Since we were heading out of town for Thanksgiving, we decided to have a staycation at The Mansion on Peachtree here in Atlanta. Choosing a special occasion place was super hard because every nice restaurant has closed and you CANNOT convince me that Bacchanalia is good. I simply don’t think much of the restaurant. Deal with it. So, we went with convenience and booked a night at Craft because Moon had never been. Unfortunately, Craft is closing its doors in February due to an alleged lease dispute with The Mansion. So, get there while you can. Since we were in celebration mode, Moon splurged on some pricey Rose champagne (what was the name again, Moonie?).

We sat in bed and sipped away until it was time to get ready for dinner and admired our view.

Dinner at Craft was great, but there was a point when Moon leaned over and said: “I just realized this is how you cook at home! You use all the same ingredients from local farmers. There really are no more nice restaurants left in Atlanta.” Duh, Moonie. Sad, but duh. Note to self: attempt Craft’s roasted bananas and butter pecan ice cream at home very soon.

My favorite part of the whole staycation–except my dreamy facial in the spa and my time with my husband–was breakfast room service. I don’t know why, but I am kind of obsessed with room service breakfast. It was included in our rate and I’d been studying the menu since we arrived. Our dog wasn’t with us, but I love the little doggie section of the menu:

I went with poached eggs and bacon.

The coffee was nice and strong, but who I am kidding? Any room service to me is awesome.

My friend Jason Molinari, who runs the Cured Meats blog, has been extolling Costco’s benefits to me for quite some time. I’ve never believed him, because, let’s face it, I can be a bit of a food snob. However, the new Brookhaven location prompted me to go check things out. I went straight for the meat because Jason had told me to do so. I found packages of 3 prime NY Strips for $30. After a heavy salting and high temperature sear in a cast-iron pan, they were magical. So, I went back and bought this 4 lb. ham for $17. The holidays came a little early here at the Zyman-Pontrelli household.

Did it up with some honeyed sweet potatoes and roasted brussel sprouts.

Pure holiday heaven on a Tuesday no less! Hams are so easy to prepare…

I then proceeded to get disgustingly sick for two weeks. I made it out of the house a couple of times, but there was really nothing blog-worthy except for my big bowl of comforting ramen and other snackies at Shoya with some friends one rainy and cold Thursday night. Carnage:

My last (semi)notable meal was at Floataway Cafe while Moon’s folks were in town. They aren’t really into ethnic food so wanted to take them somewhere that felt special, but still served a menu that appealed to a variety of tastes. Moon’s mom got the steak frites and wow. That wood-grilled hanger steak was nothing short of seductive. Kind of craving it now. I had a simple salad and some ricotta and veal meatballs.

My dish was a little watery, but everyone else’s tasted great. I guess I just ordered wrong. I will go back because it is so close to our house and I’ve got a hankering for that steak.

Believe it or not, I’m still a bit under the weather. However, I’ve been getting in lots of time at JeJu Sauna, which is helping tremendously. In fact, I’ve written a piece on JeJu’s food and other offerings for Creative Loafing. Look for it, a first look at The Local Three, and another post or two next week.

Courtesy of Collin C. Chappelle

When FLIP Burger Boutique (3655 Roswell Road, 404-549-3298) opened its first location on Atlanta’s Westside, crowds were eager to get a taste of chef Richard Blais’ cooking, especially since he’d achieved national recognition thanks to a stint on Bravo TV’s “Top Chef.” Foie gras liquid nitrogen milk shakes, steak tartare burgers, and other unorthodox creations wooed customers looking for fun with a hopeful side of celebrity. I was a fan of the first FLIP. Delightfully weird burgers. Fun music. Framed flat-screen TVs. Booze. What more could you ask for?

Fast-forward two years, and Blais is back on Bravo and has the beginnings of a weird burger kingdom. After opening a second location in Birmingham, Ala., the third location popped up in Buckhead in mid-October with chef Jason McClure (a longtime member of Blais’ crew) at the executive helm.

If you can snag a parking spot (it has taken me up to 30 minutes), you’ll find a carbon copy of the original, except slightly larger and somehow less cool as a result. A shockingly loud wall of electro-hipster sound greets you at the door where the intensely chipper hostess will inevitably tell you there’s a wait (unless you get there on the early side of lunch or dinner service). Scanning the tables yields a bit of truth about the restaurant: Go ahead and serve all the creative burgers you want, people are just going to order the simplest thing on the menu. I’ve strayed from the apparent norm and, after three visits, have eaten my way through most of the menu’s many selections.

More often than not, the fried sides — vodka-battered onion rings, fried pickles and eggplant fries — taste more of leaden fried bread than whatever ingredient lies beneath. I have had one order (out of three) of crispy and fluffy hand-cut french fries. Intensely sour Brussels sprouts arrive soggy with barely any hints of green. The wedge salad is an inherently beautiful dish, but the blue cheese dressing draping the iceberg, tomato, and Benton’s bacon tower is woefully watery and lacks punch.

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