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Bistro du Vent: New York

posted on October 28, 2005 at 10:11 am

RESTAURANT REVIEW:
I am a big fan of Mario Batali’s work. Lupa and Babbo are two of my favorite places to eat in New York. I was excited when I heard that he had ventured into French cuisine with the opening of Bistro du Vent in New York. The reservation was easy to get. That was my first twinge of uneasiness but it is Batali…I had to try it out. Gourmet.com said the restaurant had a phenomenal Frisee aux Lardons (one of my favorite salads). The restaurant also imported a rotisserie from France so I thought I was in for a treat. When we arrived at the restaurant, it was about 60% full…it was Friday night in New York. Never a good sign. Our waitress seemed absolutely clueless. She knew nothing about wine and I don’t think she understood what half of the menu actually was. I ordered us a bottle of wine and the frisee aux lardoons and baby lamb. The rest of my table ordered the chicken, the Terrine de Foie Volaille chicken liver pate with baby greens & grilled bread, butternut squash soup, pommes frites, tarte tartin. My salad was over-dressed to the point that the frissee had wilted under the weight. I did not enjoy it. My lamb was good. Well-cooked but a bit bland. They accompanying vegetables were cooked separately and then combined which retained each flavor nicely. The chicken was well-cooked but the portions were miniscule. The fries were the best part of the meal. Hand-cut and deep-fried in duck lard. Delish. The desserts were good. The caramel in the Tartin was rich and buttery. I could not help but feel unsatisfied when we left. I had enough food but the meal itself was a le-down. They really need to get to work on improving this place or this might be one of Batali’s first failures.

RESTAURANT INFORMATION:
Address: 411 W 42nd St (Btwn 9th & 10th Ave)
Phone: (212) 239-3060
View menu: http://www.menupages.com/restaurantDetails.asp?areaId=9&restaurantId=5849
Cuisine: French, Bistro

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