A honeyMoon in Paris: Ma Bourgogne, Gerard Mulot, Robert et Louise, Brasserie Lipp and more
posted on December 16, 2009 at 2:34 pm
Let me tell you how to eat in Paris. You will be tempted to go big and visit all these fancy restaurants lest you be labeled a silly American who wasted precious Paris time. But the mid-priced bistros and brasseries are your golden ticket to the real Parisian dining experience. I suggest eating at a handful of historic spots, some newer chef-driven spots, maybe one blow-out night (like Moon’s surprise Thanksgiving dinner reservation), a few ethnic joints of course–the Moroccan food is especially wonderful–and as many patisseries as you can muster.
We started with some old favorites so I could show Moonie the Paris my family has come to love. My family goes to Ma Bourgogne, which sits on Place de Vosges (the oldest square in Paris), every single time we visit. They have a famous steak tartare–although, it is chopped a bit too large for my taste–and a fabulous menu of other specialties from Burgundy (or Bourgogne).
Even though it was raining and cold, we opted to sit in the covered outdoor seating, which was warmed nicely by some heating lamps. First the wine, the chewy and crusty bread and then the famous escargot.
Glorious and I did NOT soak up all the melted butter with my bread if anyone asks you.
Frisées with lardons (bacon), tomatoes and blue cheese.
Salad with cured duck, tomatoes and a perfectly emulsified dressing.
Pork cooked in Puy Lentils: Smoky, creamy, earthy and impossible to stop eating.
Gerard Mulot doesn’t make the best macarons in Paris (the best is yet to come), but his are pretty damn good. And he makes them in fabulous flavors like Beaujolais Nouveau in honor of the season.
This was the first of many visits since we were staying in the Marais. It’s just around the corner from Place de Vosges if you are doing a little shopping or eating nearby. We were, of course, shopping.
Here’s the problem with Paris. There are lots of macarons and Moon is addicted. Actually, addicted is too soft of a word. He is
obsessed. After lunch, I took him to a regular Marais haunt of mine to get his fix: Gerard Mulot.Gerard Mulot doesn’t make the best macarons in Paris (the best is yet to come), but his are pretty damn good. And he makes them in fabulous flavors like Beaujolais Nouveau in honor of the season.
This was the first of many visits since we were staying in the Marais. It’s just around the corner from Place de Vosges if you are doing a little shopping or eating nearby. We were, of course, shopping.
After a stop at our favorite little cafe for a coffee and some free wifi, we went back and took a nap before dinner at a place my Dad found through Pudlo Paris (*the* restaurant guide to buy).
We were late and ended up doing a mad dash through the wet streets of the Marais to make our reservation. As we walked in a semi-frazzled state, we were warmly welcomed to this exceedingly rustic restaurant. Robert et Louise has been reborn after the original owner passed away and his daughter took the helm. They specialize in prime rib and other meats cooked in a fireplace. Yeah, I said prime rib in a fireplace. You can kind of see it behind the guy in the black shirt.
The place is small. Actually, its more than small. It’s cramped. And you might not like the seating if you aren’t keen on sharing tables or having your thighs pressed against your neighbor. It’s all part of the charm of Parisian restaurants.
We started with goose rillettes. I *love* rillettes. Star Provisions makes some damn good versions, but you can’t beat Paris. These were creamy, rich and we scarfed down the entire serving in one minute.
Fresh pork sausages cooked in the fireplace: I could eat ten of these juicy and crispy beauties.
The place is small. Actually, its more than small. It’s cramped. And you might not like the seating if you aren’t keen on sharing tables or having your thighs pressed against your neighbor. It’s all part of the charm of Parisian restaurants.
We started with goose rillettes. I *love* rillettes. Star Provisions makes some damn good versions, but you can’t beat Paris. These were creamy, rich and we scarfed down the entire serving in one minute.
Fresh pork sausages cooked in the fireplace: I could eat ten of these juicy and crispy beauties.
Our main course. The prime rib for two. It comes with a vinegary salad, some pan sauteed potatoes and some worn wood plates to serve yourself on. If you aren’t a fan of grass-fed beef, you won’t like French meat. It is super grassy, fattier than you are used to and you can assume your meat will be cooked rare. Truth be told, French beef is not my favorite. I prefer meat from Spain, Argentina and the States. This is still a very cute restaurant worth a visit though. The wine list has plenty of affordable options and it is very hot right now.
Another day, more rain, which we just used as an excuse to laze the morning away in our shockingly comfortable bed while drinking large bowls of cafe au lait and eating crossaints.
After a visit to the Louvre to see the Tintoretto exhibit, we took a taxi over to Saint Germain de Pres to have lunch at Cafe de Flore, but sandwiches and salads weren’t going to cut through the cold weather. So, we scurried across the busy street to Brasserie Lipp.
I love eating here. Not only is the choucroute garnie fabulous (wish I could find a good one in Atlanta outside of my kitchen), but the space is quintessentially Paris. We sat in a little corner table on the top floor where we had a perfect view of the waiters doing their centuries old dance.
I love eating here. Not only is the choucroute garnie fabulous (wish I could find a good one in Atlanta outside of my kitchen), but the space is quintessentially Paris. We sat in a little corner table on the top floor where we had a perfect view of the waiters doing their centuries old dance.
My frisee aux lardons: the croutons didn’t do it for me and I prefer a thinner lardon of bacon. But the salad was still a nice precursor to my main.
Moon’s pickled herring with onions.
Moon’s poulet roti (roast chicken). Very crisp and juicy. It came with fries too.
My pristine choucroute garnie. It had everything I look for. A good amount of finely shredded sauerkraut, salted potatoes and various cuts of pork.
The iPhone pic I sent to my mom to make her jealous.
Happily full, we started walking until we couldn’t walk anymore. As we wandered the streets, we amassed quite the arsenal of bags from the various food shops we couldn’t resist. Once we got closer to our hotel, we took inventory and realized we’d gone overboard. Shocker! We had more than enough food for our very own in-room feast. So, we canceled our reservation for the night and decided to lock ourselves up in the room. Would you like to see gluttony defined? Observe:
See that bottle of Beaujolais Nouveau? We got it from Boucherie Milo (1, Rue JP Timbaud , Paris 75011)--where we bought all the meats from–after the owner insisted we have a taste. God, I miss our visits to that man. It was the most amazing Beaujolais. This year is being called “the best vintage in history.” Get on it, people.
The next day was Thanksgiving and Moon’s long-awaited surprise dinner. I am horrible at waiting on surprises and he wouldn’t give me any hints. The hotel staff was even taking precautions when confirming all the reservations made. 
However, the wait was worth it. Stay tuned for that meal and much more…
You are right that mid-priced bistros and brasseries are your golden ticket to the real Parisian dining experience. Last summer my husband and I skipped the "best restaurants list" and instead we explored bistros and brasseries. We discovered fabulous food at off-the-beaten-path locations. Thank you for sharing great insider tips–I can't wait to visit during my trip to Paris in June. Darla Worden, http://www.60000miletickettoparis.wordpress.com
Good G.O.D.
nooooooo not a cliffhanger. crap. man… anyway, I don't want to know what it costs to eat like that. looks like it was worth it though.
Moon sounds like a great guy!
I envy you.
OOOOHHHH, love this post! I may link to it (if that's OK) on my site at BellaOnline http://europeantravel.bellaonline.com/Site.asp
Folks are always asking where to get a great local meal!
thanks!
I'm dying for the follow-up and details about Guy Savoy!